WE DO NOT DO THIS !!!

 

This page is "the other side of the coin" - the side other waterproofing contractors stop short of telling you about their procedures - a plausable sales pitch can be made for ANY BURIED PIPE waterproofing system / all the "salesman" has to know is when to stop explaining it - within the "home improvement business" this is euphemistically called "the half pitch"!!!

                     

We DO NOT dig up your yard with huge machines, risk damage to utility / water / sewage lines / remove decks / porches / walkways / driveways and destroy your landscaping to install limited life "exterior footing drains" or "curtain drains"...

We DO NOT sell "private label products" that are generically the same (often by a common manufacturer) as "off the shelf" products but for which you pay 3 / 4 times more (paints, cement, epoxies, caulking, de-humidifiers, sump pumps etc)...

We DO NOT paint, glue, epoxy, rubberize, inject or caulk to do a "bandaid" wall or floor crack repair - we do not do jobs that degrade, push off or peel off in short order leaving even a bigger mess to remove plus the water return...

We DO NOT do "bentonite injections" next to the outside foundation walls -  "bentonite" is refined clay that with constant over exposure to water becomes saturated and thinned out to a point of no value  - it is the primary ingredient in "kitty litter" - have you ever had to clean up over saturated "kitty litter" - that's what will be next to your foundation (kitty litter soup)...  NOTE (quote): Under Title1, Property Improvement Loan Program, the U.S. Dept. of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) "does not permit loans to be made for waterproofing of a structure by pumping or injection of any substance in the earth adjacent to or beneath the foundation or basement floor"...

We DO NOT sell, install or recommend expensive "emergency backup sump pumps" - these battery powered gimmick pumps will only run continuously for approx. 4 to 6  hours ( at a declining performance rate as the battery wears down) and only have 1/3, or less, of the pumping capacity (gph) of an electric pump - the special and very expensive marine battery must be replaced every few years whether you use it or not - you would be better served with a portable gas generator, for less $$$ than one of these pumps, that will maintain your full pumping capacity for as long as required plus give you a few more outlets for lights, refridgeration etc - there are many small, easy to operate and inexpensive generators available for homeowners that are perfect for this type limited, if ever, use...

We DO NOT tell you that you need, and try to sell you, everything in the catalog - underground pipe, sump pump, emergency backup sump pump, dehumidifer, alarm system etc. - we will suggest what you need / no more no less...

We DO NOT sell a plastic or metal "cove baseboard drainage system" - numerous pieces glued together, glued to the floor, leak and promotes condensation that in turn allows for mold growth - these systems are generally installed by "moonlight contractors" or sold by web site marketers and hardware stores to "do-it-yourselfers" with preordained results (failure)...

We DO NOT do "interior french drains" - with these systems the pump is located so deep that you are constantly trying to pump the water table dry - that's not possible - you can install 10 pumps and that won't happen - when you hear the pump go on (constantly) you assume it's doing a great job but you are only pumping the "same" non- threatening water over and over, forever -  it's like pumping water out of one end of a pool and putting it back in on the other end - you can go through many pumps without once being in danger of flooding - THE ONLY WATER OF CONCERN IS WATER THAT REACHES THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FLOOR - our "optimum depth" shallow sump pump well procedure (approx. 16" deep polyethylene well which is fully code compliant) prevents that "flooding" level from being reached - you can also pump silt (dirt), at unnecessary depths, that can plug the pump or undermine your footings and substrate which causes settlement that in turn cause wall or floor cracks - although "interior french drains" are touted as being the best  (by "chain" or "dealership" operations who only want a one time sales event / big buck / big profit job) - we go on jobs all the time that have these systems and water is still coming in - when buried in mud (which is what the water table is) "precipitated sediment" buildup in inaccessable perforated pipes cause these systems to clog and fail - WHAT DO YOU DO THEN??? - GUARANTEED??? - DO YOU REALLY BELIEVE THEY WILL COME BACK AND DIG IT ALL UP AGAIN, FOR FREE - DON'T HOLD YOUR BREATH WAITING - OUR PROCEDURE DOES NOT PLUG UP... 

We DO NOT install a "perimeter channeling" that is placed on top of the footing then covered with cement - to install this plastic or metal channel duct the floor is cut, all the way thru, 8 to 12" away from the wall and removed - see next paragraph as pertains to this practice...

We DO NOT do any "full thru cutting of the concrete floor 10" to 18"from the wall" to bury perforated pipe under the floor (for interior french drains or perimeter drains) - up to 20% of your floor weight is supported, on it's perimeter, by the footings which only projects about 4" or less from the wall (under the floor) - cutting out beyond 4" means your floor has been structurally compromised and must now be fully supported by the substrate alone that, to varying degrees, has most likely been undermined by water which causes settlement - the transfer of the entire floor weight is then on the substrate alone - that causes additional compression of the substrate (settlement) - concrete doesn't bend - with settlement the floor cracks and allows water to perk thru - if you have put down a finished floor the entire floor must be removed to address the cracks... 

We DO NOT do "exterior footing drain systems" - basically the same as interior french drains but on the outside - these also fill up with "precipitated sediment" (even quicker) then you get to dig it up and do it all over again...

We DO NOT "pipe outside water inside" - some that do exterior footing drains or curtain drains and cannot effect a gravity drain, rather than lose a BIG BUCKS job, may suggest connecting the exterior drain line to an interior sump pump -  dumb - a train wreck about to happen (enough said on this one)...

We DO NOT do "curtain drains" -  a dog and pony show - a break the bank procedure usually done by excavating contractors who want to keep their machines working for a better return on their investment - curtain drains are generally installed on one side of the house, usually on an upslope and about 20' long - curtain drains do not address water that comes around them, through them (when the drain pipe clogs with "precipitated sediment"), under them and is still present between your house and the curtain drain - when the drain pipe fills with sediment (even with so called sleeves or screens) it no longer drains and you have created a huge drywell (a water storage area) with all the stone used - that presents an even bigger problem to deal with - contractors who do this procedure also do REDOS (and advertise that they do REDOS - does that tell you anything???)...

We DO NOT do "crawlspace encapsulation" with plastic sheeting that is used to hide and coverup dirt, water, mold, rodent or insect infestation - the only crawl space work we do is that with a minimum 4' headroom and with a concrete floor in or going in - would you buy a house with plastic sheets for the walls and floor???

We DO NOT do "exterior underground wall applications" (tar, rubber, spray, membrane etc) - this entails covering or spraying the underground exterior walls with "whatever" (usually a 10 year limited  guarantee on moisture migration through the walls ) - what happens to the water that is still present??? - as soon as it's backfilled the water (mud) is then subjected to hydrostatic pressure, goes under the footing and then rises under the floor (water seeks it's own level) allowing for the water to enter through the "cold joint" or produce floor cracks - either way you still get water - when you tell them that water is coming in they will tell you that their "limited guarantee" is for the walls, not the floor, and they will be right (they just forgot to mention this) - the "cold joint", where the wall and floor meet, is the #1 water entry location that causes flooding followed closely by floor cracks and with walls a very remote 3rd - this type of application is generally done by new construction builders to create a favorable sales pitch which on the face of it sounds great - this type application however does not prevent water entry or flooding...

 We DO NOT pick up (to vastly increase our profit) cheap, off the street as needed, illegal???, uninsured, off the books / paid in cash daily (if they are paid at all) and inexperienced day laborers to do our jobs (most of whom do not even speak English) - if you see these guys (their experienced tradesmen???) jump out of the truck when they show up to do your job you would be well advised to reconsider before they start - ILLEGAL, UNINSURED OR OFF THE BOOKS  (regardless of what you may be told) MEANS "YOU" WILL BE LIABLE IF THEY ARE INJURED ON YOUR PROPERTY (ask any attorney)...

We DO NOT pay any listing advertiser to be "referred" or "sponsered" on their website - we do not pay fees, royalties, commissions or kickbacks to anyone - that money stays in YOUR pocket...

We DO NOT use "salesmen with big buck commissions" - you will get a comprehensive, ungilded and honest evaluation with both the pros & cons up front and directly from a "tradesman" not a "salesman" - we DO NOT only tell you "what you want to hear" just to get the job - have you ever heard any "salesman" tell you the "cons" about anything he was pushing??? we will even if it means losing the job...

We DO NOT try to "hard sell" you everything in the catalog - pumps, pipes, backup pumps, alarms, dehumidifiers etc - we will suggest "what you need" - no more, no less...

 

 

 

                      We know it will be a long wait but,

 

We invite ANY other waterproofing company to dispute, IN WRITING ON THEIR WEBSITES, anything stated on this site (been making this offer since 1999 and no takers so far - they may poo poo it "verbally", in their sales pitch, but won't put it in writing - does that tell you anything???)...

 

-------------------- -------------------- -------------------- --------------------- --------------------

 

CAN YOU SMELL THE COFFEE YET???

SMARTER NOW THAN 5 MINUTES AGO???

KEEP READING - GET EVEN SMARTER!!!

  

If you wish to view more "INSIDER" CONSTRUCTION TRADE OBSERVATIONS OVER MORE THAN 40 YEARS visit our introductory website -- aaahomerepair.com  -- under the "CAVEAT EMPTOR" heading... 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

                                                                                                                                           

Totally confused???

Been given unaffordable numbers ($$$)???

Didn't understand what they were talking about??? 

Talked to so many people you forgot who said what???   

We keep it affordable and understandable... 

 

         When you get ready to go

             just pick up your phone

                    it's that quick and easy

      There will be NO pressure to "sign up on the spot"

            or

                  daily phone calls, every day thereafter, if you don't

 

                                                     

                 PRESS THE FOLLOWING BUTTONS

                                 AND WE ARE ON THE WAY  

 

                                       203-743-6988    24/7/365 

     

                          

  WE DO KEEP IT "SIMPLE"

Using only 2 basic principles of natural science...

hydrology 1 - underground water is subject to hydrostatic pressure 

hydrology 2 - water seeks its own level

THAT'S IT, PERIOD - NO WHISTLES & BELLS